Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Bowline Made from a Slip Knot

I prefer to make the bowline in this fashion. Note how the process starts with a bight, loop and bight.
The top bight is inserted into the loop.  This forms a slip knot.

 The remaining bight captures the loop formed by the slip knot.
 Once captured, the slip knot is pulled out.  Another way to say it is as follows: the slip knot is capsized (turned inside out).
Consider how a bowline was just formed by a slip knot.  Could it capsize the other direction?  Yes.  Thus the bowline alone isn't stable for the demands of climbing.  It needs to be backed up.

A common back-up is the Yosemite.  Here it is.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Reworking the Blakes Hitch

There are occasions where a Blakes hitch will lock-up with a heavy climber.  This illustration is exploring a possible counter measure.  The blue loop is in a strategic spot to facilitate an easier descent.  It hasn't been thoroughly tested.  This serves to review it and gain experience with it.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

The Palomar Knot

I'm evaluating the Palomar knot as a climbing knot.  There are reports of it being a strong knot.  It's a bight of rope that makes an overhand knot.  Once at that stage, the loop (1) sticking out is pull back on the overhand knot.  A carabiner captures the doubled rope at the (3) position.

Here are the beneficial features: a) doubled rope b) no sharp radius turns c) easy to unload d) has an unique shape and ease of inspection.

Questions: i) OK for terminal use ii) to what degree has it been used and tested in the climbing worlds iii) as a mid-line attachment, is it stable (thinking about the two strands at different angles)

Friday, December 9, 2011